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Tag: All Models

  • What Can You Carry on Subaru Crossbars?

    Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

    Crossbars are a platform, not a single-purpose accessory — the same set can carry a cargo box one weekend and bikes the next, as long as you know the actual weight and mounting rules for each. This is a quick reference for what fits, and links to the full guide for whichever one you’re actually shopping for.

    Cargo Boxes and Baskets

    The most common crossbar accessory — enclosed boxes for weatherproof storage, open baskets for bulky or dirty gear. See our Roof Basket vs Roof Box guide to decide between them, or jump straight to the model-specific buyer guides for Outback, Forester, or Crosstrek.

    Bikes

    Roof-mounted bike trays are lighter on the weight budget than a cargo box, though a hitch-mounted rack is usually the better choice if you’re carrying more than one bike. See our model-specific guides for Outback, Forester, or Crosstrek, or our Hitch Rack vs Roof Rack comparison if you’re deciding between the two mounting styles.

    Kayaks and Paddleboards

    J-cradles and saddle mounts both work on standard crossbars — see our J-Cradle vs Saddle Kayak Carriers comparison, or the model-specific guides for Outback, Forester, and Crosstrek.

    Skis and Snowboards

    Dedicated ski/snowboard mounts clamp directly to the crossbars and are one of the lighter accessories on this list, weight-wise. See our model-specific guides for Outback, Forester, and Crosstrek.

    Roof Tents and Awnings

    The heaviest common crossbar accessories on this list — a roof tent especially needs crossbars rated for its full weight, not just a passing check. See our Roof Tent vs Ground Tent and Best Awning for Subaru guides for specifics.

    You Can’t Mount Everything at Once

    Total crossbar weight capacity is shared across whatever’s mounted — a cargo box and a bike rack together can exceed the rated limit even if each would be fine alone. Check your total combined load against your crossbar rating before assuming you can stack accessories. See our How Much Weight Can Subaru Crossbars Hold? guide for the details.

    Common Mistakes

    • Assuming crossbar capacity is per-accessory instead of total. Everything mounted at once shares the same weight budget.
    • Mounting a roof tent on unrated crossbars. The single accessory on this list most likely to exceed a stock crossbar’s rating.
    • Not checking compatibility before buying. Not every accessory clamps to every crossbar profile — confirm fit before ordering.

    FAQs

    What’s the heaviest thing you can put on Subaru crossbars?
    Depends on the specific crossbar rating, but roof tents and fully-loaded cargo boxes are typically the heaviest common accessories.

    Can I mount a cargo box and a bike rack at the same time?
    Only if the combined weight of both, plus their contents, stays under your crossbar’s total rated capacity.

    Do all crossbar accessories fit the same way?
    Most modern accessories are designed for standard crossbar profiles, but always confirm compatibility with your specific crossbars before buying.

    Gear Worth Considering

    Three well-reviewed items that go with a roof setup. We chose them for their ratings and review counts.

    Need bars first? See our picks for the Outback, Forester and Crosstrek.

    Final Thoughts

    Crossbars are genuinely versatile — the same set handles cargo, bikes, water sports gear, and winter sports gear, just not all mounted at once past the weight limit. Know your total capacity, check compatibility, and the rest is picking the right accessory for the trip.

    Related Guides

  • Subaru Overlanding Setup for Beginners

    Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

    Worth being upfront about this one: this site is built around practical everyday use, road trips, and camping — not overlanding as a focus. A stock or lightly-equipped Outback, Forester, or Crosstrek also isn’t a purpose-built overlanding rig the way a lifted 4Runner or Jeep with real ground clearance is. That said, plenty of Subaru owners get curious about it, and a modest version is genuinely achievable without turning your daily driver into a full build. This is the beginner-friendly version, not a deep technical guide.

    What “Overlanding” Actually Means Here

    At its simplest, overlanding is self-sufficient, vehicle-based travel — camping and exploring further from pavement than a typical car-camping trip, without needing a full support infrastructure. It doesn’t require a heavily modified vehicle to start; it requires being self-sufficient for a few days, which a well-organized Subaru can genuinely do for mild trails and dispersed camping.

    What a Stock Subaru Can Realistically Do

    Symmetrical AWD and decent ground clearance (especially on Wilderness trims) handle maintained dirt and gravel roads, mild forest service roads, and dispersed campsites without much trouble. What it can’t do is technical rock crawling, deep mud, or serious water crossings — the kind of terrain that actually needs a lifted, heavily modified vehicle. Knowing that line before a trip matters more than any piece of gear on this list.

    A Realistic Starting Setup

    Most of what a beginner setup needs is already covered elsewhere on this site: a roof or ground tent for sleeping, an awning for shelter at camp, and a drawer system or storage bins for organized gear. The overlanding-specific additions worth considering are a basic recovery kit (traction boards, a tow strap) and a way to check tire pressure and air back up if you air down for softer terrain — neither is expensive, and neither commits you to a bigger build.

    Common Mistakes

    • Attempting terrain beyond what a stock Subaru can handle. Ground clearance and lack of low-range gearing are real limits, not suggestions.
    • Buying a full modification package before one real trip. Start with what you already have plus a modest addition or two, then decide what’s actually missing.
    • Skipping a basic recovery plan. Even mild terrain occasionally goes wrong — a simple kit and a plan cost little and matter a lot when needed.

    FAQs

    Can a stock Subaru go overlanding?
    For mild dirt roads and dispersed camping, yes. For technical terrain, no — that needs more ground clearance and capability than a stock Subaru offers.

    Do I need a lift kit to start?
    Not for a beginner setup on mild terrain. A lift becomes relevant once you’re consistently pushing into rougher trails than a stock ride height comfortably handles.

    Is this site focused on overlanding?
    No — this is a general practical-use and camping site. This article is a beginner-friendly starting point, not deep technical overlanding coverage.

    Gear Worth Considering

    Three well-reviewed items for time away from home. We chose them for their ratings and review counts.

    See our full guides to the best sleeping pad for a Subaru and the best power station for Subaru camping.

    Final Thoughts

    A modest overlanding-style setup is realistic on a Subaru for mild terrain and self-sufficient camping — it doesn’t require a full build to get started. Know the vehicle’s real limits, start with gear you’d likely want for camping anyway, and add the overlanding-specific pieces only once you know you’ll actually use them.

    Related Guides

  • Drawer System vs Storage Bins for Subaru

    Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

    A drawer system and a set of storage bins solve the same basic problem — keeping gear organized and accessible — at very different price points and levels of permanence. One is a real investment aimed at frequent, gear-heavy use; the other is flexible, cheap, and easy to change your mind about. Most people don’t need the drawer system, but some genuinely do.

    Quick Picks

    • Best drawer system: Tuffy Security Drawer with Shelf — a genuine locking, heavy-duty drawer built for regular use, not just extra storage.
    • Best storage bins: Hard storage bins — the flexible, lower-cost option that covers most people’s actual needs.

    What a Drawer System Actually Gets You

    A drawer system is a semi-permanent platform that slides out for access instead of requiring you to dig down into a stacked pile of bins. The real advantages are organization that doesn’t degrade over time (gear stays in its assigned spot instead of migrating), security (locking drawers keep tools or valuables out of sight and out of reach), and a flat top surface that works as a sleeping platform or work surface. The real cost isn’t just money — it’s permanently giving up some cargo height and flexibility, since the system stays installed rather than coming out between uses.

    What Storage Bins Actually Get You

    Bins are flexible in a way a drawer system isn’t — they come out entirely when you need the full cargo area, cost a fraction as much, and let you change your organization system as your actual needs change. The tradeoff is exactly what a drawer system solves: gear tends to migrate and pile up over time, there’s no built-in security, and accessing something at the bottom of a stack means moving everything on top of it first.

    Who Actually Needs a Drawer System

    Frequent campers or overlanders who are packing and unpacking the same gear on a near-weekly basis get real value from a drawer system — the time saved on organization adds up fast at that frequency. Tradespeople or anyone carrying tools that need to stay secured also benefit from the locking option specifically. For occasional campers, or anyone who wants the cargo area fully open most of the time, bins solve the same problem for a fraction of the cost and commitment.

    Comparison

    Drawer SystemStorage Bins
    CostHighLow
    FlexibilitySemi-permanentFully removable
    SecurityLocking option availableNone built-in
    Best forFrequent use, tools, overlandingOccasional campers, changing needs

    Common Mistakes

    • Buying a drawer system before trying bins first. A cheaper trial run often reveals whether the organization problem is real or just occasional.
    • Underestimating the lost cargo height. A drawer system takes up real vertical space permanently — worth measuring before committing.
    • Assuming bins are automatically the “starter” option. For a lot of people, bins solve the problem completely and there’s no reason to ever upgrade.

    FAQs

    Is a drawer system worth it for occasional camping?
    Usually not — the cost and permanent space commitment pay off more for frequent, gear-heavy use than occasional trips.

    Does a drawer system fit any Subaru?
    Most are sold as universal-fit for mid-size SUVs, but measure your specific cargo area before buying — fit varies more than with simple bins.

    Can I still sleep in the vehicle with a drawer system installed?
    Often yes — many drawer systems have a flat top that works as a sleeping platform, though it changes the total usable height compared to bins that come out entirely.

    Final Thoughts

    Most people’s actual storage problem is solved by bins — cheap, flexible, and good enough. A drawer system is a real upgrade for frequent, gear-heavy use or anyone who needs secured storage, but it’s a genuine commitment, not just a fancier bin.

    Related Guides

  • Subaru Camping Storage Ideas

    Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

    Our Interior Storage Ideas for Subaru guide covers everyday storage. Camping storage is a different problem — it’s not about daily clutter, it’s about organizing enough gear for a multi-day trip so you’re not digging through everything every time you need one item.

    Quick Picks

    • Best for category separation: Collapsible storage bins — one per gear category, flattens down for the drive home.
    • Best for fragile or heavy gear: Hard storage bins — worth the extra space for cookware and anything that needs real protection.
    • Best cooler: RTIC cooler — keeps food separate from everything else, which matters more on a multi-day trip than it does for daily use.

    Separate by Category, Not by Person

    Organizing camping gear by category — cook gear, sleep gear, clothes, safety and first aid — works better than organizing it by person, because most tasks at a campsite involve one category at a time. Making dinner means you need the cook bin, not everyone’s individual bags. This is the single biggest organizational shift from everyday storage, where “whose bag is this” actually matters.

    Keep Wet and Dirty Gear Away From Everything Else

    Muddy boots, a wet tent, or used cookware shouldn’t share space with clean clothes or dry sleeping gear — a dedicated bin or bag for anything wet or dirty, packed separately from day one, saves a genuinely unpleasant cleanup later. This matters more on the way home than on the way out, since gear picks up moisture and dirt over the course of a trip.

    Pack for Setup Speed, Not Just Capacity

    What you need first at a campsite (tent, cook gear) should be the easiest to reach, not buried under what you need last (sleeping bags, pajamas). Packing in reverse-use order — last-needed items in first, first-needed items in last, closest to the hatch — cuts real time off setup at the site.

    What Goes Where for a Quick Morning Departure

    Whatever gets used last before leaving a site — the tent, sleeping bags, cook gear from breakfast — inevitably gets packed last and ends up on top. Planning for that instead of fighting it (leaving room near the hatch specifically for these last-packed items) makes breaking camp faster than trying to force everything back into its “ideal” original spot.

    Common Mistakes

    • Organizing by person instead of by category. Most campsite tasks need one gear category, not one person’s full bag.
    • Packing wet or dirty gear next to clean gear. Separate them from the start rather than sorting it out later.
    • Ignoring use-order when packing. What you need first at the site should be easiest to reach, not buried under everything else.

    FAQs

    What’s the best way to organize gear for a camping trip?
    By category (cook, sleep, clothes, safety) rather than by person — it matches how gear actually gets used at a campsite.

    Should wet gear go in the same bin as everything else?
    No — keep it separate from day one to avoid a bigger cleanup problem by the end of the trip.

    How is camping storage different from everyday storage?
    Camping storage is about categories and use-order for a multi-day trip; everyday storage is about quick access to a handful of small daily items. See our Interior Storage Ideas for Subaru guide for the everyday version.

    Final Thoughts

    Camping storage works best organized by category and packed in reverse-use order — not by trying to fit everything as tightly as possible. A little planning before the trip saves real time at the campsite, both setting up and breaking camp.

    Related Guides

  • Best Awning for Subaru

    Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

    A roof-mounted awning solves a problem tents don’t: shade and dry space right next to the vehicle, up in minutes, without needing a separate structure. It’s one of the cheaper roof-rack accessories that makes a real difference at a campsite — mainly because it turns the area next to the car into usable space instead of just parking.

    Quick Picks

    What an Awning Actually Solves

    Shade and weather protection right at the vehicle — cooking, eating, or just sitting without full sun or a surprise rain shower ending the afternoon. It’s not a replacement for a tent; it’s a covered space that works whether you’re sleeping in a roof tent, a ground tent, or just parked for the day.

    Mounting and Weight Considerations

    Most awnings mount directly to crossbars, so the first real question isn’t which awning to buy — it’s whether your crossbars can support one. Awnings are lighter than roof tents, so this is less often a dealbreaker than it is for a roof tent, but it’s still worth checking your specific crossbar rating before ordering. See our Roof Weight Limits guide if you’re not sure.

    Size and Coverage

    Awnings are typically sold by coverage area, roughly matched to how many people need to fit underneath. A smaller awning is easier to deploy solo and puts less strain on the mounting hardware; a larger one covers a family or a shared group but takes a bit more effort to set up and needs more clearance to fully extend.

    Setup Time and Wind

    Most pull-out awnings deploy in a few minutes with basic guy-lines and stakes for stability — not a permanent installation, but not instant either. Wind is the real practical limit: awnings need to come down (or at least be securely staked) in genuinely windy conditions, since the same large flat surface that provides shade also catches wind like a sail.

    Common Mistakes

    • Skipping the crossbar weight check. Cheap and light doesn’t mean “mounts on anything” — confirm compatibility first.
    • Buying the largest awning available “just in case.” A bigger awning means more setup effort and more surface area to manage in wind, not just more shade.
    • Leaving it deployed in high wind. The most common cause of awning damage or a bent mounting arm.

    FAQs

    Do I need a roof tent to use an awning?
    No — an awning works independently, whether you’re sleeping in a roof tent, a ground tent, or not camping overnight at all.

    Will an awning fit on factory crossbars?
    Usually, as long as the crossbars are rated for the awning’s weight — check the specific rating rather than assuming.

    How long does it take to set up an awning?
    A few minutes for most pull-out styles, including stakes and guy-lines for stability.

    Is an awning worth it if I already have a tent?
    Yes for most camping styles — a tent covers sleeping, an awning covers everything you do while awake at the site (cooking, sitting, waiting out rain).

    Final Thoughts

    An awning is one of the cheaper roof-rack accessories that makes a genuine difference at a campsite — shade and dry space in a few minutes, with no impact on how you sleep. Confirm crossbar compatibility first, pick a size that matches your actual group, and it’s a low-effort addition to almost any camping setup.

    Related Guides

  • Roof Tent vs Ground Tent for Subaru Owners

    Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

    A roof tent and a ground tent solve the same problem — somewhere to sleep on a camping trip — in genuinely different ways, and the right choice depends more on how often you camp and what your crossbars can carry than on which one is objectively “better.” Neither wins outright; they trade off against each other in predictable ways.

    Quick Picks

    Black Subaru Outback with a Thule roof tent fully deployed, ladder extended
    Photo: Bull-Doser, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

    Setup Speed and Effort

    Roof tents win this category outright — most fold out in under a minute, no stakes, no finding level ground. A ground tent, even an “instant” cabin-style one, takes longer to pitch and requires a reasonably flat, clear site. If you camp often enough that setup time adds up, or you tend to arrive at a site after dark, that difference is worth more than it sounds.

    Cost and Commitment

    Ground tents are cheaper to buy and cheaper to replace if damaged. Roof tents run several times the cost of a comparable ground tent, plus they need compatible crossbars rated for the weight — not a given on every setup. For occasional camping, a ground tent is the lower-risk way to find out how much you actually enjoy it before committing to roof-tent money.

    Comfort and Capacity

    Ground tents scale to a family more easily and cheaply — a 6-person cabin tent costs a fraction of a roof tent rated for the same number of sleepers. Roof tents are typically sized for 2-3 people, which makes them a better fit for couples or smaller families than for a full family trip. Roof tents do have one real comfort edge: you’re off the ground, away from rocks, roots, and crawling insects, with a built-in mattress that doesn’t need separate padding.

    Subaru Outback parked at a campsite with a ground tent and dogs nearby

    What It Does to Your Daily Driving

    A roof tent, once mounted, tends to stay mounted — most are heavy enough that removing and reinstalling it for every trip isn’t realistic. That means daily driving with it on: real fuel economy loss, wind noise, and a permanent height increase to remember at parking garages and drive-thrus. A ground tent has zero impact on daily driving since it lives in the trunk between trips, not on the roof.

    Which One Actually Fits Your Camping Style

    Roof TentGround Tent
    Setup speedFastestSlower, needs a clear site
    CostHigh, plus rated crossbarsLow
    Best group size2-3 peopleScales to families cheaply
    Daily driving impactReal (stays mounted)None
    Best forFrequent campers, couplesOccasional trips, families, first-time buyers

    Common Mistakes

    • Buying a roof tent before confirming crossbar weight ratings. Not every crossbar setup can support one — check before buying, not after.
    • Choosing a roof tent for a family of four. Most are sized for 2-3 people; a ground tent handles a larger family for less money.
    • Underestimating the daily-driving tradeoff. A mounted roof tent isn’t a weekend-only accessory — it affects every drive until it comes off.

    FAQs

    Is a roof tent worth it for occasional camping?
    Usually not — the cost and daily-driving tradeoff pay off more for frequent campers than occasional ones. A ground tent is the lower-commitment starting point.

    Can any Subaru support a roof tent?
    Only with crossbars rated for the tent’s weight — check your specific crossbar and roof weight limits before buying. See our Roof Weight Limits guide.

    Does a roof tent hurt gas mileage?
    Yes, noticeably, since it typically stays mounted rather than coming off between trips — similar to any large roof-mounted accessory.

    Which is better for a family?
    A ground tent, in almost every case — cheaper, sized for more people, and no daily-driving tradeoff.

    Final Thoughts

    Neither option is a clear upgrade over the other — they fit different camping styles. Frequent campers and couples get real value from a roof tent’s speed and comfort. Occasional campers and families are usually better served by a ground tent’s lower cost, larger capacity, and zero impact on daily driving.

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