Built for Subaru

Tag: All Models

  • Cool Things You Can Add to a Subaru

    Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

    Not everything worth adding to a Subaru solves a problem — some of it’s just genuinely fun. This list skips the practical, ROI-focused stuff (see our Subaru Accessories Worth Buying guide for that) and sticks to small additions that add personality or novelty without needing to justify themselves as an investment.

    Interior Ambient Lighting

    An app-controlled LED strip light kit changes the whole feel of the cabin at night for not much money — genuinely one of the highest fun-per-dollar additions on this list. Most kits run off a USB port and stick to the interior trim without any real installation.

    A Dash Cam, Just Because

    A dash cam earns its spot on a “cool, not just practical” list because most people who install one end up genuinely enjoying reviewing interesting drives, not just keeping it for insurance purposes. It’s useful and a little fun at the same time.

    Personalization

    Badges, decals, and license plate frames are the cheapest way to make a Subaru feel like yours specifically rather than one of thousands of the same trim on the road. None of it is necessary, all of it is reversible, and that’s exactly the point of this category.

    A Foldable Sun Shade That’s Actually Fun to Use

    Practical, sure, but a foldable sunshade with a fun pattern or design does the same heat-blocking job as a plain one for the same price — no reason not to pick the version you’ll actually enjoy looking at every time you park.

    Common Mistakes

    • Buying the cheapest LED kit without checking reviews. Quality varies a lot in this category — a few extra dollars usually buys noticeably better build quality.
    • Skipping the return policy check on a novelty item. Fun purchases are still purchases — confirm returns are possible before installing anything permanent.
    • Treating this list as a priority list. None of this is necessary — if budget is tight, the practical accessories guide is the better place to spend first.

    FAQs

    Are these accessories worth the money?
    That depends on what you value — none of them are strictly necessary, but they’re genuinely enjoyable additions for not much cost.

    Is ambient lighting hard to install?
    Most kits are USB-powered and adhesive-mounted — no wiring or permanent modification required for the common versions.

    What’s the difference between this list and the practical accessories guide?
    This one is about novelty and personality; the practical guide focuses on accessories that solve a real recurring problem. See our Subaru Accessories Worth Buying guide for that side.

    Final Thoughts

    Not every car accessory needs to justify itself with a return on investment. A little personality and a little fun are reasonable things to spend a small amount of money on, especially in a vehicle you spend real time in.

    Related Guides

  • When Should You Upgrade From Factory Crossbars to Aftermarket?

    Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

    Our Factory Roof Rails vs Aftermarket Crossbars and OEM vs Aftermarket Crossbars guides cover which is generally better. This one skips that debate and answers a more useful question: how do you know when it’s actually time to upgrade your specific setup, rather than just wondering if you should?

    Vehicle roof rating versus crossbar rating: the lower number is your real usable limit

    You’ve Outgrown What Factory Crossbars Can Carry

    This is the clearest, most objective signal. If you want to add a roof tent, a heavier cargo box, or anything else that pushes past your factory crossbars’ rated capacity, that’s not a “maybe” — check the actual rating before assuming an upgrade is optional. See our How Much Weight Can Subaru Crossbars Hold? guide to check your specific numbers.

    You Need a Longer or Different Spread

    Some accessories — certain cargo boxes, wider bike setups — need a specific minimum crossbar spread that factory bars don’t always provide. If an accessory’s fitment guide calls out a spread your factory setup can’t hit, that’s a compatibility issue an upgrade solves, not a preference.

    Wind Noise or Fuel Economy Complaints Are Real and Ongoing

    If factory crossbars are creating noticeable wind noise or you’re seeing a real mileage hit even without anything mounted, some aftermarket designs are genuinely more aerodynamic. This is a softer signal than the first two — worth weighing against the cost, not an automatic “upgrade now.”

    Signs You Probably Don’t Need to Upgrade Yet

    If your factory crossbars are handling everything you actually mount to them, within their rated capacity, without wind noise you find genuinely bothersome — there’s no real reason to upgrade just because aftermarket options exist. This is worth saying directly: an upgrade solves a specific problem. If you don’t have one of the problems above, factory crossbars are doing their job.

    Common Mistakes

    • Upgrading without a specific reason. If factory crossbars handle your actual use case, an upgrade is a cost without a real benefit.
    • Assuming all aftermarket crossbars rate higher than factory. Not always true — check the actual spec, don’t assume.
    • Ignoring the dynamic weight rating when checking capacity. The static (parked) number isn’t the one that matters while driving.

    FAQs

    Do I need aftermarket crossbars for a roof tent?
    Often yes — roof tents are among the heaviest common accessories, and factory crossbars don’t always rate high enough. Check the specific numbers before assuming either way.

    Are aftermarket crossbars always stronger than factory ones?
    Not automatically — capacity varies by brand and design. Check the actual rating rather than assuming aftermarket means higher capacity.

    Is it worth upgrading just to reduce wind noise?
    It can be, but it’s a softer case than a hard capacity or compatibility limit — weigh the cost against how much the noise actually bothers you.

    Gear Worth Considering

    Three well-reviewed items that go with a roof setup. We chose them for their ratings and review counts.

    Need bars first? See our picks for the Outback, Forester and Crosstrek.

    Final Thoughts

    The real signals for upgrading are specific: a capacity limit you’ve hit, a spread requirement you can’t meet, or an ongoing noise/mileage issue that genuinely bothers you. Absent one of those, factory crossbars doing their job is a good reason to leave them alone.

    Related Guides

  • How Much Weight Can Subaru Crossbars Hold?

    Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

    Our Roof Weight Limits guide covers the vehicle’s own roof load rating. Crossbars have a separate rating of their own — and in a lot of setups, especially aftermarket ones, the crossbar’s rating is the actual limiting factor, not the vehicle’s.

    Vehicle roof rating versus crossbar rating: the lower number is your real usable limit

    Two Different Numbers That Both Matter

    The vehicle’s roof has its own rated capacity, and the crossbars mounted to it have theirs — these aren’t always the same number, and the lower of the two is your real, usable limit. Factory crossbars are engineered specifically for the vehicle and often match closely to the roof’s own rating. Aftermarket crossbars can rate higher or lower depending on the brand and design, which is exactly why checking the crossbar’s own spec sheet matters, not just the vehicle’s.

    Where to Actually Find the Crossbar Rating

    Look at the crossbar manufacturer’s product listing or manual, not the vehicle’s owner’s manual — that number only covers the roof itself. Most crossbar brands publish a dynamic (driving) and static (parked) rating separately, and the dynamic number is almost always lower. Plan around the dynamic rating, since that’s the one that applies any time the vehicle is actually moving.

    What Counts Toward the Total

    Everything mounted to the crossbars counts toward the rating — the accessory’s own weight (a cargo box, basket, or bike rack isn’t weightless) plus whatever’s loaded inside or on it. A common mistake is budgeting only for the cargo and forgetting the accessory itself can weigh 30-50 lbs before anything’s loaded into it.

    Stacking Accessories Adds Up Fast

    A cargo box alone might sit comfortably under the rating. The same box plus a bike mount plus actual cargo can exceed it even though each piece seemed reasonable individually. Add up the full stack — accessory weights plus contents — against the crossbar’s dynamic rating before assuming everything fits. See our What Can You Carry on Subaru Crossbars? guide for a rundown of common accessory weights.

    Common Mistakes

    • Only checking the vehicle’s roof rating. The crossbar has its own separate rating that can be the actual limiting factor.
    • Using the static rating instead of the dynamic one. The dynamic (driving) rating is almost always lower and is the one that applies on the road.
    • Forgetting the accessory’s own weight. A cargo box or basket isn’t weightless before you’ve loaded anything into it.

    FAQs

    Is the crossbar rating the same as the vehicle’s roof rating?
    Not always — they’re two separate numbers, and the lower one is your actual usable limit.

    Where do I find my crossbar’s weight rating?
    The manufacturer’s product page or included manual — not the vehicle’s owner’s manual, which only covers the roof itself.

    Should I use the static or dynamic rating?
    Dynamic — it’s the rating that applies while driving and is almost always the lower, more conservative number.

    Does the weight of the cargo box or basket itself count?
    Yes — it counts toward the total along with whatever’s loaded inside it, not just the cargo alone.

    Gear Worth Considering

    Three well-reviewed items that go with a roof setup. We chose them for their ratings and review counts.

    Need bars first? See our picks for the Outback, Forester and Crosstrek.

    Final Thoughts

    Check both numbers — the vehicle’s roof rating and the crossbar’s own rating — and plan around whichever is lower, using the dynamic figure. It’s a five-minute check that avoids a genuinely risky overload, especially once accessories start stacking up.

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  • Best Roof Basket for Subaru

    Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

    A roof basket is one of the simpler crossbar accessories to shop for — there’s less variation in design than cargo boxes, and the main decisions are size, weight capacity, and whether you want a bag included for weather protection.

    Quick Picks

    What Actually Matters When Choosing One

    Weight rating matters more than basket size for most buyers — a larger basket that’s under-rated for what you actually want to carry isn’t useful. Check your crossbar’s own rated capacity too, since the basket’s rating and your crossbar’s rating both need to clear whatever you’re loading; the lower of the two is your real limit. See our Roof Weight Limits guide for the vehicle side of that equation.

    Steel vs Aluminum Construction

    Steel baskets are generally more affordable and rated for higher weight capacities, at the cost of extra weight on the roof itself — worth factoring into your total roof weight budget. Aluminum options are lighter and often easier to handle during installation, generally at a higher price point for a comparable capacity.

    Do You Need a Bag?

    A basket alone offers zero weather protection — anything inside gets exposed to rain, dust, and road grime. A waterproof cargo bag designed for the basket solves this without needing to switch to an enclosed box, and it’s worth the extra cost if you’ll ever carry anything that shouldn’t get wet or dirty.

    Common Mistakes

    • Buying based on size alone. Weight rating is the more important spec for most actual use cases.
    • Ignoring your crossbar’s own weight rating. The basket’s capacity doesn’t matter if your crossbars are rated lower.
    • Assuming a basket keeps gear dry. It doesn’t, without a separate weatherproof bag or your own tarping.

    FAQs

    Do roof baskets keep gear dry?
    Not on their own — you’ll need a waterproof cargo bag or your own tarping for weather-sensitive gear.

    Steel or aluminum roof basket?
    Steel generally offers more capacity for less money but adds more roof weight. Aluminum is lighter at a higher price point.

    What’s the actual weight limit for a roof basket?
    Whichever is lower between the basket’s own rating and your crossbar’s rated capacity — check both, not just one.

    Final Thoughts

    Most roof baskets do the same basic job well — the real decisions are weight capacity, construction material, and whether a weatherproof bag is worth the extra cost for what you actually plan to carry.

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  • Roof Basket vs Hitch Cargo Carrier

    Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

    Our Hitch Cargo Carrier vs Roof Box guide covers the enclosed-box comparison. A roof basket is a different roof-mounted option than a box, and it competes with a hitch cargo carrier in a more direct way — both are open platforms for bulky gear, just mounted in different places on the vehicle.

    Quick Picks

    Access and Loading Height

    A hitch carrier wins clearly here — loading at bumper height is easier on your back and doesn’t require reaching overhead, especially for heavier items. A roof basket means lifting everything above your head, which gets old fast with anything heavier than a duffel bag.

    What You Need to Mount One

    A roof basket needs crossbars rated for its weight plus cargo — most Subarus with factory or aftermarket crossbars qualify. A hitch cargo carrier needs a receiver hitch installed, which is a separate purchase and installation if your Subaru doesn’t already have one. That upfront requirement is the main practical reason some people default to a roof basket instead.

    Rear Visibility and Access

    A hitch carrier sits behind the vehicle and can block the rear camera or make the hatch harder to open fully, depending on how it’s loaded — worth checking before committing to one. A roof basket has zero impact on rear visibility or hatch access, which matters if you’re loading and unloading the trunk frequently on the same trip.

    Fuel Economy and Wind Noise

    A hitch carrier generally has less aerodynamic impact than a roof basket, since it sits in the vehicle’s wake rather than catching wind at highway speed the way anything roof-mounted does. If fuel economy on a long trip matters more than overhead clearance concerns, that’s a real point in the hitch carrier’s favor.

    Which One Actually Fits Your Setup

    Roof BasketHitch Cargo Carrier
    RequiresRated crossbarsReceiver hitch
    Loading heightOverheadBumper height
    Fuel economy impactHigherLower
    Rear accessNo impactCan block hatch/camera

    Common Mistakes

    • Buying a hitch carrier without checking hatch clearance first. Some loaded configurations block the hatch from opening fully.
    • Choosing a roof basket for consistently heavy gear. Repeated overhead lifting adds up — a hitch carrier is easier on your back for heavy, frequent loads.
    • Not factoring in hitch installation cost. If you don’t already have a receiver hitch, that’s a real added cost and step a roof basket skips entirely.

    FAQs

    Which is easier to load, a roof basket or a hitch carrier?
    A hitch carrier, generally — bumper-height loading beats lifting overhead, especially for heavier items.

    Do I need a hitch installed for a hitch cargo carrier?
    Yes — if your Subaru doesn’t already have a receiver hitch, that’s a separate purchase and installation before you can use one.

    Does a roof basket affect gas mileage more than a hitch carrier?
    Usually yes — anything roof-mounted catches more wind at highway speed than a hitch-mounted carrier does.

    Final Thoughts

    A hitch carrier generally wins on loading ease and fuel economy; a roof basket wins on not needing a hitch installed and not blocking rear access. If you already have a hitch, it’s usually the more comfortable option for frequent, heavy loads.

    Related Guides

  • Roof Basket vs Roof Box

    Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

    A roof box and a roof basket solve different problems. The right one depends on what you haul, not which Subaru you drive, so the same tradeoffs apply on an Outback, Forester, or Crosstrek.

    Quick Picks

    • Best roof box: Thule Motion 3. Pick the size on the listing: the L (16 cu ft, 16.5 in tall) suits most Subarus, and the XL Low (14 in tall) is the choice for tight garages.
    • Roomier roof box: Yakima SkyBox NX 16. 16 cu ft and 48 lbs, a good all-round size for most Subarus.
    • Best roof basket: Yakima LoadWarrior. Durable steel basket with a strong mounting system.
    • Lower-profile basket: Thule Canyon XT. Sits a little lower and has a more aerodynamic shape.

    Weather Protection

    A box wins outright here — fully enclosed and weatherproof, it protects luggage, electronics, or anything that can’t get wet. A basket offers none of that on its own; gear needs to be in dry bags or tarped separately, which adds setup time and isn’t as reliable in real rain.

    What Actually Fits

    A basket handles irregular, bulky, or oversized gear that a box’s fixed shell can’t — coolers, camping gear, firewood, anything dirty or wet that shouldn’t go inside a sealed box. A box is better for anything that benefits from full enclosure: luggage, soft bags, gear you want locked and hidden from view.

    Securing a Basket Load

    An open basket needs tie-downs every trip. Ratchet straps hold heavy or rigid items, cam straps are quicker for lighter loads, and a cargo net keeps smaller gear from shifting or lifting at speed. Recheck the straps at your first stop, since loads settle.

    Wind Noise and Fuel Economy

    An aerodynamic box shell generally creates less wind noise and drag than an open basket, especially at highway speed — one of the underrated advantages of the enclosed design. A basket’s open structure and whatever’s strapped to it both add wind resistance a box’s smooth shell avoids.

    Rear Hatch Clearance

    Either one can block the rear hatch if it sits too far back. Boxes are the bigger risk because they are longer and have a fixed mounting range. Baskets are usually shorter, but a load that hangs off the back can still catch the hatch. Open the hatch through its full swing before you tighten everything down. See How Far Forward Should a Cargo Box Sit? for positioning.

    Cost and Installation

    Baskets are typically less expensive than a comparable-capacity box and simpler to strap gear to without worrying about the box’s opening mechanism or interior fit. Boxes cost more but include their own mounting hardware and a lockable latch system that a basket doesn’t offer without adding separate straps or a cargo net.

    Which One Actually Fits Your Use Case

    Roof BoxRoof Basket
    Weather protectionFullNone built-in
    Best forLuggage, soft bags, valuablesBulky, dirty, or oversized gear
    Wind noiseLowerHigher
    CostHigherLower

    Common Mistakes

    • Buying a box for gear that doesn’t need weather protection. A basket is cheaper and handles bulky, dirty gear better.
    • Using a basket for luggage on a rainy trip. Without dry bags or a tarp, gear gets wet — a box solves this without extra steps.
    • Ignoring wind noise on long highway trips. A basket is noticeably louder at speed than an enclosed box.

    FAQs

    Which is better, a roof box or a roof basket?
    Depends on what you’re carrying — a box for weather-sensitive gear like luggage, a basket for bulky or dirty gear like firewood or coolers.

    Is a roof basket cheaper than a roof box?
    Usually, yes, for comparable capacity.

    Does a roof basket affect gas mileage more than a box?
    Generally yes — the open structure creates more wind resistance than an aerodynamic box shell.

    Can I leave a roof basket on full time?
    You can, but most owners find it noisy and hard on fuel economy for daily driving. It is easier to live with installed for specific trips.

    Which is better for family road trips?
    Usually a box. It keeps luggage dry, cuts cabin noise, and feels steadier on long highway drives.

    Final Thoughts

    Neither option is universally better — match the choice to what you’re actually hauling. Weather-sensitive gear favors a box; bulky, dirty, or irregular gear favors a basket. Many frequent users eventually own both for different trips.

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